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Introduction to Meunier

Pinot Meunier is a chimeric mutation of the Pinot Noir grape, easily recognized by its pale white powdered vine leaves - the leaves look like they're sprinkled with flour, hence the name, “Miller's Grape” - and blue skinned grapes. About one-third of the vineyards in Champagne are planted to Meunier. While Meunier used to have the reputation of being inferior in quality to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and was believed to be not suitable for long term aging, we are now seeing that these formerly common beliefs are misconceptions. Some vines are more than 100 years old, ungrafted and untouched by phylloxera, and monovarietal Meunier wines are the latest trend and have become one of Champagne’s most exciting wines. Many young talented growers are making Champagnes made of 100% Meunier grapes. Most of them are located in villages around Château Thierry, west of Epernay and on the west side of the Montagne de Reims. In the Côtes des Blancs - known for their excellent Chardonnay - villages like Moussy, Pierry are particulary interesting. It is quite rare to find monovarietal Meunier champagnes in the Côtes des Bar. During my quest I've come across 2 producers, Falmet and Dosnon, which I believe to be the only growers producing a 100% Meunier in this region.



Typical Meunier

Cherry, ripe blue plum, creamy yellow fruits, high-toned citrus and tropical tones such as mango, passion fruit and pineapple with a backbone of smokiness, dried berries, bread dough and mellow spices. These are characteristics that I often find in Meunier vin clairs which I tasted at several Champagne houses. In some cases Meunier can even be mistaken for Chardonnay depending on the terroir. There is actually no such thing as 'typical Meunier'. When I tasted some still wines from Emmanuel Brochet - who is working biodynamically - I was simply blown away by the depth, complexity and out-of-space character, not comparable to any Meunier I ever tasted. Meunier is often used to harmonize the blend but many Grands Marques are adding Meunier to show the house style, the signature blend. Krug uses Pinot Meunier grapes from Leuvrigny and Sainte-Gemme for their vintage wines to give more depth, structure and freshness, and to accentuate acidity. It also helps provide that toasted brioche touch to the blend. Piper Heidsieck uses rather austere Pinot Meunier from Merfy which gives the Non-Vintage the athletic, grainy texture on the palate which is their trademark. Bollinger uses Meunier from Venteuil which often has crystallized citrus fruits and young stone fruit together with a slightly herbaceous character. We can conclude that Meunier is of very importance to define their quality.


When Meunier ages

When Meunier ages, the fruity character gets emphasized and honeyed tones come forward. Sometimes you get lovely secondary notes of gunpowder and ripe mango. In tertiairy stage it can give aromatic impressions of forest floor, old cheese, nutty aromas and roasted coffee. Champagne antiquarian and Meunier wizard René Collard used to be a superstar in Champagne. He was working without pesticides and maintaining his vineyard the most natural way possible long before the organic era. All had been vinified on oak. The wines have become rare collectibles. His best vintages are Carte d’Or 1985, 1976 and the mythic 1969.

The Champagne House J. de Telmont is now the treasure keeper of the Collard collection and sells them under the name “Héritage”. Thanks to Betrand Lhopital I had the chance to taste a vintage 1985 and 1995 but I was not blown away by them. J. de Telmont does have a fantastic single vineyard Meunier that will be on the market soon. When I visited Champagne Vincent Charlot in Mardeuil, he let me taste something blind. It was extremely aromatic, tropical, lovely roasted and mineral complex but with a lot of green notes. I guessed the vintage, 1992, but it was clearly disgorged very recently because the color was so pale. It was like time stood still for this wine because it had a pungy acidity and a lot of focus on the palate. I wish Vincent made more of this from other vintages.

Alexandre Salmon from Champagne Salmon in Chaumuzy gave me some interesting bottles from off-vintages 1978 and 1981. The 1978 was an incredibly earthy, truffled tobacco bomb with an everlasting finish. The 1981 was also complex had a fabulous acidity but a very strange mid palate that confuses your palate because it tastes very umami. An interesting but not great wine. I also tasted vintage 1971 which was lacking fruit but would work great with game and a sexy 1976 with a bonedry finish which could use some dosage to take this to another level. I was very lucky to taste a mythic vintage 1964 with Michel Loriot from Champagne Apollonis. The wine is rather light golden in color but very oily in texture. Lovely tertiary notes on the palate but quite a peculiar finish with green notes and a dry cut on the palate followed by a trail of youthful acidity.


Masters of Meunier

 

Chevreux-Bournazel

Stephanie and Julien from Chevreux-Bournazel are young passionate wine makers from Connigis. They only have Meunier and make extremely refined and pure champagnes as well as a spectacular ratafia. They work biodynamically. The wines are aged 11 months on Bordeaux oak, the same casks that Vincent Charlot uses for his wine, no malo and no filtering. I’m convinced that “La Parcelle” vintage 2013 without dosage will soon be a very sought after cult wine. The production is extremely tiny. You absolutely have to buy it when you find it.
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Emmanuel Brochet - Les Hauts Meuniers

Emmanuel Brochet is one of those alchemist magicians in Champagne. His vineyards are located in Villers-aux-Nœuds, south of Reims. His wines are from another planet. When I tasted Les Hauts Meunier vintage 2009 I became speechless. This is the nec plus ultra of Meunier! A true handmade, masterful wine.
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Benoit Déhu - La Rue des Noyers

One of the most outstanding Meunier champagnes that I’ve tasted is “La rue des Noyers” by Benoit Déhu. He makes a champagne, a still white (côteaux champenois blanc) and a red wine from this parcel in Fossoy. All wines are vinified in oak barrels and he lets the identity of the terroir speak. He doesn’t apply malolactic fermentation, filtration and battonage. He aexperiments with different kinds of rootstocks and also with oak barrels coming from Yquem. His cuvée La Pythie is a rare find that I hope to taste some day.
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Jerome Dehours

The vineyards are very fragmented with no fewer than 42 parcels spread over Mareuil-le-Port, Oeuilly and Troissy. The wines are bold and mineral-driven at the same time while also showing a lot of lovely woody spicyness. Single parcel "Les Genevraux" vintage 2005 is fabulous.
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Cristoph Mignon

The vines are located in Festigny. Christoph calls the style of his champagnes old-school but in fact he works entirely biodynamically. The wines have perfect maturity and a lovely balance between the fruit, complex minerality and leesy/fermented character. Unfortunately I only tasted his base cuvée “Pur Meunier” but it definitely impressed me. I hope to taste more soon.
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Flavien Nowack

Flavien Nowack is another phenomenon. I tasted the wines from his father but have to admit that I didn’t like them because they lacked personality, fun, or complexity – the wines seemed merely unidimensional and plain. The wines of Flavien are of a complete different league. During my short visit, he showed me his playground: a small cuverie filled with oak barrels. He loves experimenting. Some oak barrels are from the prestigious Coche-Dury domaine in Burgundy. His single parcel Meunier champagne comes from lieu-dit “La Fontinette” from 50 year old vines in Chatillon sur Marne. The malolactic fermentation has been stopped midway, and there is no filtering, as if all work iwas done by nature itself. It’s a highly refined wine with lots of potential. Unfortunately no tasting notes due to bad storage bottle.

Jerome Prévost

Jerome Prévost is one of the the most famous Meunier specialists, and his “La Closerie” is particularly notable. It’s a single parcel wine from vineyard Les Beguines in Gueux (west of Reims) which is not exactly the kind of terroir that first comes to mind for for making champagne. It was champagne guru Jacques Selosse who convinced him to make champagne and to prove that it is possible to make a great wine from “inferior grapes”. La Closerie has become an absolute cult wine. It is rich, complex and very vinous. There is also a version “sans colle” which is like sparkling cloudy vin naturel. I was most impressed by his cuvée Fac Simile rosé but couldn't get a bottle for this project.
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Eric Taillet

Eric Taillet is a true Meunier evangelist. He is the founder of Meunier Institut: a select group of passionate vignerons completely dedicated to this wonderful grape variety. When I tasted the still wines at the domain, I was simply blown away. Meunier from vintage 2015 tasting like Montrachet. His cuvée "Bois de Binson" is the wine to search for. Cuvée Bansionensi is an ode to the valley of Belval where Meunier is king.
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Benoit Tarlant

The first 100% Meunier champagne that I've tasted is Benoit Tarlant's La Vigne d’Or 1999. The vines were planted in 1947 in vineyard Pierre de Bellevue in 1947 in Oeuilly. It was vinified on used oak barrels and aged on cork “sur liège”. The result is a very seductive, Burgundian wine with tropical fruit, toasted almonds, butter and a racy acidity. I was thrilled to taste and retaste La Vigne d'Or. Together with Benoît we did a fabulous vertical tasting starting with a 2006 going back to the lovely 1999.
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Apollonis: Authentic Meunier


Vineyard: Festigny
Viticulture: HVE
Vinification: Vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel vats
Dosage: 10 grams

Blend of harvest 2010-2011-2012. Nice golden color with a modest effervescence. Complex nose of elderflower, hawthorn, nectarine, honeydew melon, a touch of honey, cocoa powder, caramel and deep bakery yeasty tones. After a while it expressed blueberry, baked apples, crunchy warm pie crust and beech smoke. The mouthfeel is dense but with elegance. On the palate we get the lovely nectarine, honey, cocoa and baked apples from the nose together with tropical tones like ripe pineapple, kaki and caramelized nuts. On the mid palate there is forrest strawberry and earth tones. On the finish you get yellow fruits, soft toast and complex mineral tones. Pairs lovely with Beaufort d'alpage cheese or escargots.
84 points


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Apollonis: Monodie


Vineyard: Festigny
Viticulture: HVE
Vinification: Vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel vats

Monodie 2008. 5 grams of dosage. Light golden color with a modest effervescence. Fresh medium complex nose of reinette apple, sea saltiness, ginger sytup, peach and fresh nuts. The mouthfeel is tight, clearly too young. On the palate we get unripe peach, red apple, crystallized honey and herbal tones. On the mid palate you get redcurrant. The finish is tight and acidic. I must retaste this next year.
Not rated

Monodie 2007. 6 grams of dosage. Lovely golden color with a modest effervescence. Deep nose of young cheese, foliage, earthy Chinese tea, blueberry, raspberry, crème anglaise, candied citrus and fleur de sel. The mouthfeel is full bodied. On the palate we get elderberry jam, dark cherry, Boskoop apple, veal stock and pastry. Long finish with forrest fruit, honey and minerality. Perfect with lobster belle vue.
86 points

Monodie 2004. 2 grams of dosage. Lovely golden color with a modest effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Seductive nose of almond oil, ripe peach, acacia and sunflower honey, pruneaux liqueur, candied grapefruit and nutty pastry from Alsace. On the palate you get plum, marzipan, honey and almond oil. Lovely typical cherry tones on the mid palate. Lovely balance and with depth and focus. Long finish with tobacco, candied citrus and minerality. Delicious.
87 points with 89 potential

Monodie 2002. 2 grams of dosage. Romantic nose of baked apple, hazelnut, churros, soft XO cognac, bread-pudding, old comté cheese and sweet corn. After a while we get ripe peaches, dried cherry, musk and delicious mold Madagaskar chocolate with a whiff of nutmeg. Quite impressive... The mouthfeel is velvetty. On the palate we get baked apple, cognac, peach, juicy doyenné pear and sweet corn. A bit less complex on the palate than the nose would suggest. On the mid palate we get a slightly bitter overtone of chocolate. The finish is surprisingly long with bread-pudding, nutmeg and a big of toast too. Absolutely delicious.
88 points with 89 potential


Apollonis: Vintage 1964

Quite a youthful color for a wine that’s over 40 years The aroma is just fantastic with straw, black currant, old library, polishing wax, licorice, goose liver paté, forest floor and mushrooms, coffee and green gooseberries. It has a lovely concentrated but elegant mouthfeel. On the palate you get smoked lemon, cognac, blackcurrant and lots of tertiary notes. Quite a peculiar finish with green notes of green peppercorns and salted lemon and cigar smoke which follows into a dry cut but then suddenly you get a trail of youthful acidity. I don’t think I ever had something like this.
91 points






Robert Allait: Plaisir Nature


Vineyard: Villers-sous-Chatillon
Viticulture: Raisonnee and HVE
Vinification: Vinified in temperature controled stainless steel vats
Dosage: No dosage

Deep straw color with a red hue and a refined effervescence. In the nose we get ripe mirabelle plum, peach, Corinthian raisins, violette candy, soft bakery yeast and a touch of Kirsch. Quite a ripe aroma. After a long time in the glass the aroma evolved with dried plum, candied apricot and sea shells. The mouthfeel is round with lots of body. On the palate you get mirabel, nectarine, raisins, dried fig, orange blossom and pleasant yeast tones. The mid palate has a nice bitterness which gives wine tension. On the finish you get candied citrus fruits and a touch of licorice. I would never have guessed that this wine was zero dosage. A very nice aperitif .
82 points





Barnier: 100% Meunier


Vineyard: Vieilles vignes from Villevenard with oldest vines planted in 1910 and youngest 1956.
Sustainable viticulture
Filtration: Slight plate filtering
Vinification: Vinified in oak barrels
Ageing: Aged “sur liège” on cork
Dosage: Extra-Brut

Harvest 2009. Pale light golden color with a lovely elegant effervescence. Delicious aromas of quatre quarts cake, frangipane, apricot jam, cherry, apple blossom, passion fruit, gooseberry, saffron and orange zest. After swirling the glass came raspberry, currant and oaky tones. The mouthfeel is impeccable, focused and full dynamics. In the attack we get Mont St Michel pallets cookies with fleur de sel and citrus fruits followed by vineyard peach, orange with zest, grapefruit, ginger and hazelnut. The finish is long with light spiciness of wood and eau de vie warmth with Sicilian lemon. The finish is soft with an astonishing perfect acidity and a nicely layered complexity. A very impressive Meunier champagne.
90 points





Beaumont de Crayères: Fleur de Meunier


Vineyards: Mardeuil (chalky subsoil)
Viticulture: Sustainable viticulture
Filtration: on Kieselgühr
Vinification: Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks.
Ageing: On the lees with crown cap
Dosage: 0 gr

Vintage 2008. Intense nose of grapefruit, Dashi pear, peach, coriander seeds, cardamom, slate and smoky minerality. After a longer while in the glass we get ripe greengage plum and french bakery tones with almonds and melted butter. The texture is soft and elegant. On the palate we get lovely citrus ith red berries, fig and juicy doyenné pear. Crisp finish with minerality, granny smith apple and kumquat acidity and a soft spicyness of white pepper and mace. Perfect balance and good focus and tension. There is a lovely integrated sweetness that makes this wine round so I would never have guessed that it was a zero dosage champagne. Very nice.
87 points




Bourdaire-Gallois: Brut Tradition


Vineyards: Pouillon
Viticulture: Haut Valeur Environmental (not certified) practicing organic
Filtration: Crossflow ceramic filtration
Vinification: Fermentation in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation done
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap

Base 2012: No dosage. Pale yellow golden color with a refined effervescence. On the nose we get mellow fruit tones of ripe Golden delicious, almonds, Slightly oxidative in style. A rather unpleasant bitterness stays on the mid palate. The wine seems a bit out of balance. The finish shows angular acidity and mineral notes. After half an hour this wine was unrecognizable. The nose was more mature, honied and showed french bakery notes like butter croissant, fig, baked banana and turrón (almond pastry). On the palate it was also nicely evolved with nice autolytic notes of freshly baked bread and gingerbread with honey. Surprisingly it completely harmonized. The finish was nutty has candied citrus with integrated acidity. A lesson: give this wine time to open up and drink it at a warmer temperature.
80 points

Base 2010. Dosage 5g / l. Light golden color with fine bubbles and exceptionally beautiful mousse in the glass. On the nose we get cake dough with sea breeze and ozone with a light touch of cedarwood, pure citrus fruit, unripe Mirabelle plum, walnut and citrus zests with a hint of cherry. The mouthfeel is light. On the palate we get an attack of fresh citrus fruit followed by pear, gooseberry, lemon zest and complex minerality. Fairly long finish with citrus acidity and carambola. I miss a little bit of body and dynamics, but it is a high quality light-weight wine.
78 points

Base: 2009. No dosage. Dried fig, vine peach, almond, biscuit, clover honey, ripe apple and butter. Quite an evolved nose. After swirling the glass there came lovely autolytic tones together with a complex minerality. The mouthfeel is rounded but tight at the same time. From Zalto universal it showed smokiness, fern, blueberry, brambleberry and foliage together with that ozon-like character. On the palate we get baked apple, citrus, ripe peach and juicy pear together with biscuits and honey. The finish is rather short. A very enjoyable meunier.
83 points





Bourgeois-Diaz: cuvée "M"


Vineyard: Croute sur Marne (clay and limestone)
Viticulture: Biodynamie Demeter
Filtration: None
Ageing: 24 months on the lees with crown cap
Dosage: 1 gr

Lovely golden color with a perfect effervescence. The nose is wonderfully complex with paranuts, pear chutney, papaya, lemon, dried flowers, starfruit, lemongrass, graphite, smoky minerality and volcanic ash. The mouthfeel is chewy and deep but structured. The palate is an infusion of citrus fruit, tropical fruits, It keeps on evolving and amplifying to the finish. A whirlpool of flavours like crystalline citrus fruits, yuzu, nashi pear but also white tea and dried herbs. On the mid palate there is flint minerality. On the finish we get lime, red berries and a soft note of cherry together with a trail of complex mineral notes. Utterly perfect balance, linear but multi spectral. A fantastic discovery.
90 points with 92 potential


Bourgeois-Diaz: Rosé de Saignée


Vineyard: Croute sur Marne (clay and limestone)
Viticulture: Biodynamie Demeter
Filtration: None
Ageing: 24 months on the lees with crown cap
Dosage: 4 gr

Garnet red color. On the nose we get an explosion of cherries, lavender, dried viola flowers, pommegranate and a soft but not disturbing medicinal undertone of betadine. After a longer while in the glass it starts to smell like a great pinot fin burgundy with soft earthiness, richness of the wood, pure fruit combined with amazing complex mineral accents. The texture is deep and vinous. On the palate it tastes like a sparkling red cotes de nuits with tons of red fruits, biodynamic funkyness. On the mid palate there is a lovely bitter edge of yellow grapefruit, lavender and old kriek Lambic beer. Huge finish with nutmeg, dried cherries, morello cherries with a complex minerality. This wine is like a wild sturgeon. Only the right gastronomical dish will be able to tame it. Very impressive.
92 points





Emmanuel Brochet: Les Hauts Meuniers 2009



Vineyard: Villers-aux-noeuds vines planted in 1962. Sand, chalk and clay soil.
Viticulture: Biodynamie, Organic
Filtration: none
Ageing: 16 months sur lies, old cask
Dosage: none

Yellow golden color with an exquisite refined effervescence and nice tears on the glass. The nose is complete madness: artichoke, green apple, complex fermented tones, acacia honey, salted lemon, wet rocks, pomelo, sour cream, biodynamic moondust, marijuana vapor, absinthe and macadamia nuts. Extremely layered. The mouthfeel is dynamic, oily with huge concentration and fresh at the same time. On the palate you get mandarin orange, pomelo, lemon cream, Granny Smith, pallet mont st. Michel biscuits and Manchego on the mid palate all together with a floral complexity. There is so much going on here and many flavors are completely new to me. This wine is so unique… The finish has everything: it’s multi-staged beginning with candied fruits, going to nuttiness, then you get citrus and apple acidity and then a stunning minerality. I gave up on analyzing, it is too beautiful for that kind of approach. This is together with David Leclapart cuvée l'Astre the most extraterrestrial champagne that I have tasted. Close to perfection.
98 points





Vincent Charlot: Meunier 1992



Vineyard: Mardeuil
Viticulture: Biodynamie, Organic
Viticulture: vinified on Bordeaux barrels, no malolactic fermentation, no fining, no filtering

Yellow golden color, rather light and youthful with a perfect effervescence and fat tears on the glass. The nose shows both maturity, green notes and acidity with baked apple, fig, salty umeboshi, kombucha wet mushrooms, corn pulp, straw, corintian raisins, vanilla and a haze of medecin cabinet with anesthetic diethyl ether but not disturbing and some chlorofyl notes. After a long time in the glass it started showing polishing wax, pomegranate and turrón (Spanish almond delight). The mouthfeel is vinous but still focussed and linear. On the palate you get darkness of burned vegetables, matured clover honey, prunes, fig, cherry and an overtone of acidic lemon and eucalyptus. The finish is dry and toasty. This is a very special wine. Not many bottles left in Vincent his cellar.
88 points





J. Charpentier: cuvée Pierre Henri


Vineyards: Reuil, Châtillon sur Marne
Viticulture: sustainable
Vinification: 1st fermentation only in new oak barrels 5-6 wines old, without malolactic fermentation, with lees stirring and with conservation in barrels for 10 months.
Dosage: 4.5 gr

Intense aroma of toasted brioche, elderberry jam, apricot, apple, honey, blonde tobacco, butter, hazelnut rhubarb and sea breeze. After some time there came an oxidative note of pommeau, pear-fig syrup, baked butter and deep smoke. The mouthfeel is expressive and quite vinous. On the palate we get mirabel, cumin seeds, rosehip, apple, lemon, On the mid palate we get flint minerality.Spicy finish with pepper, toast, lemon with zest and gooseberry. Good balance and length. Fun!
86 points





Chartogne-Taillet: Les Barres 2008


Vineyards: Merfy, oldest vines from 1952, chalk and thanetian sand
Vinification: vinified on used oak barrels
Dosage: 0 gr

Honey colored with a soft effervescence and lovely mousse. On the nose you get paint, rancio, yellow kiwi, dried apricot, turmeric, raisins soaked in brandy, straw, yuzu, oyster, clay, dried flowers and a little bit volatile acidity of white balsamic vinigar. After a while in the glass the aroma went completely flat and muted but surprisingly returned revealing even more complexity after a longer period of time. We swapped the Zalto white wine with a Jamesse Grand Champagne. It was more vinous with notes of polishing wax, mushroom, chichory root and breadcrust but also more fruity revealing fleshy tropical fruits reminiscent of jackfruit and a maillard reaction aroma of roastbeef. It actually eminded me a lot of a matured Selosse Initial. The mouthfeel is bold and vinous. The flavor has a Normandian apple cider character showing lots of maturity and rustic yeasts, the kiwi from the nose returns together with jackfruit and a hint of toffee. The flavor complexity expands a lot in your mouth when you slurp projecting delicious pink grapefruit. On the mid palate you get chalk and clay-like mineral accents and salinity, quite exceptional. Very long finish with pink grapefruit, lemon zest, white pepper, dried oignon, sumak and saffron. Very evolved for a 2008, a year that has the reputation to be the new 1996. I would never have guessed that this was a mono-cepage Meunier if I had this blind. This wine needs the right dish this to be fully appreciated. To drink now, a point.
85 points





Chevreux-Bournazel: La Parcelle


Vineyards: Connigis
Viticulture: Organic, Biodynamic
Filtration: No filtration
Vinification: Fermentation in oak barrels from Burgundy. Malolactic fermentation blocked
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage: 0 gr

Vintage 2014: No dosage. Straw color with a mild effervescence and a nice mousse in the glass. On the nose you get ginger powder, chichory root, blueberry, tamarillo cherry, dried banana, yellow raisin, madeleine biscuits a hint of fresh oregano and aloë vera. There is an alcohol touch of something reminiscent of grappa. The mouthfeel is focussed and dry. On the palate you get red apple, yuzu, peach, orange zest. On the mid palate dried berries and mild spices. Ripe apple in the long aftertaste. Open this bottle long in advance.
87 points with 88 potential

Vintage 2013: No dosage. Nice straw color with very fine bubbles and a lot of mousse in the glass. Made from 100% pinot meunier. In the first nose, we get a lot of yeast and lemon but this wine clearly needed a lot of air. After swirling the wine, we get star fruit, yuzu, turmeric, ginger, rose, cranberry, fennel seeds, cumin seeds and pumpkin.Very tight and young. After an hour it showed much more complexity with apricot, pear, grapefruit, light pineapple, coconut flakes but also minerality of rocks. The mouthfeel is energetic. In the attack we get unripe raspberry followed by apple, lemon, white berries, toast, hints of dried porcini mushrooms and tarragon. On the mid palate there is some smoky white tea and lemon zest. The finish has a sharp citrus acidity, again star fruit, spicy wood and white pepper. Impressive length. It has a slightly oxidative character that reminds me of Selosse Initial. Still very young. I wonder how this will evolve after 2-3 more years extra maturation. Un Grand Champagne. Perfect with Kaiseki sushi.
89 points with 92 potential

Vintage 2012: No dosage. Lovely yellow straw color with a very refined effervescence and nice tears in the glass. In the nose, we get ginger, turmeric, licorice, yuzu, pear, rosehip, nougat and eucalyptus. After swirling the glass, we get Mirabelle plum, blood orange, mango, acacia honey, a slight lactic tone of quark and sea breeze. After a long time in the glass there came the fantastic aroma of sesame and Lapsang Souchong tea. The mouthfeel is delicate, precise and dynamic. On the palate we get Asian Pear, verbena tea, rose hips and lemon with zest. The finish is long with citrus acidity, spicy wood, toast and white pepper. This champagne is also made in extra-brut version. Personally I prefer this as non-dosage. Chevreux-Bournazel, a winery to keep an eye on! Drink now to 2020.
87 points with 89 potential





Jerome Dehours: Terre de Meunier


Vineyards: Blend of different parcels Mareuil le Port, Troissy
Vinification: Fermentation in small oak barrels
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage: 2 gr

A lovely preview that I’ve tasted at Dehours but unfortunately one glass is not enough for me to review a wine. This is base 2015 with reserve wines from 2012 and 2013. Very spicy nose of turmeric, asafoetida, grated carrot, apple, yuzu and sappy citrus fruit. Quite vinous in the mouth. Very focussed on the palate with layers of citrus fruits, a nice bitter edge of zests, again yuzu and woody spices. Some tropical sweet notes on the mid palate. On the finish you get lots of - lip smacking - acidity and minerality all together with a hint of thyme. This promises a lot and it seems to be affordable too.
Not rated


Jerome Dehours: Les Genevreaux


Vineyards: Troissy parcel "Les Genevraux", vines planted in 1979. Clay soil (decarbonated)
Vinification: Fermentation in small oak barrels
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage: 3 gr


Vintage 2009. Disgorged november 2015. Light golden color with a refined effervesence. On the nose you get bakery yeast, turmeric, ginger, beeswax, pear and toast with an overtone of fresh butter. The mouthfeel is straightforward, focussed and dynamic. Clearly a young wine. On the palate you get gooseberry, rhubarb, lemon, chicory root, cherry and wood. Long finish with gooseberry, toast and ginger powder. Promises a lot. Will need to retaste this.
Not rated

Vintage 2006. Disgorged 12/04/2012. Lovely golden color with pink reflections and a modest but refined effervescence. In the nose you get warm tones of toasted grains, ash from fireplace, saffron, orangettes, orange oil, cardamome, pear peel, dates, fresh celeriac and a lactic lactic hint of buttermilk. After a some while in the glass you get carobe powder and almost roasted coffee tones. The mouthfeel is delicate with a soft mouth caressing mousse but at the same time vinous. On the palate you get dark yeasty tones with grains, fried oignons, quince cheese and a fruity core of vineyard peach. On the mid palate you get Panettone fruit cake. The finish is long with deep woody flavors and a complex minerality. Very enjoyable but I prefer the more complete vintage 2005.
87 points

Vintage 2005. Disgorged may 2014. Lovely golden color with a very refined effervescence and soft mousse. Deep nose of malt, mocha, fermented fruits, animalic tones, acorn, meringue Italienne, ozone and almond powder. It seemed a bit reductive at first but it opened up nicely showing flambeed pineapple, bramble and pear in red wine and an exquisite aromatic complexity like the Wild Maquis of Corsica. The mouthfeel is vinous, thick and intense. On the palate you get dried plum, quince cheese, roasted pineapple, toasted hazelnuts, salted caramel and deep yeasty tones. Intense finish with lovely citrus acidity, coffee and sea saltiness. Delicious!
90 points


Jerome Dehours: Blanc de Meuniers 2007


Vineyards: Mareuil le Port
Vinification: Fermentation in small oak barrels
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage: 3 gr

Disgorged 19th of november 2012. Dosage of 3g / l. Intense golden color with very elegant sparkle and beautiful mousse . On the nose: bread crust , coffee , white chocolate , spicy wood tones with tobacco , turmeric , pink pepper corns , hay , dried artichoke, thistle flower , cooked strawberries , ginger , licorice , cane sugar, myrrh , coconut and complex minerality with overtones of pear and mango . Electrically charged mouthfeel . Spicy attack with citrus fruits followed by turmeric , sorrel , fennel seeds , cayenne pepper (only the umami and the floral aspect ) , sage with lemon and lime nicely integrated acidity . Long nutty finish with a dot of esjalottes on vinegar , parsley, leather and fleur de sel . Very complex wine , but still very very young . I recommend to open the champagne a day in advance and then seal it with a Champagne stopper or caraf it. Perfect with crispy polenta with mushrooms , truffle oil and very old pecorino cheese.
85 points





Benoît Déhu: La Rue des Noyers


Vineyards: Fossoy
Viticulture: Bio
Filtration: none
Vinification: Fermentation in oak barrels
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage: 1 gr


Base 2011: Made from 100% Pinot Meunier from plot La Rue des Noyers in Fossoy. Disgorged in March 13 2014 Light straw color with very fine bubbles. Extremely interesting aroma of smoky wood, bramble berry, cherry, saffron, star anise, coriander, meringue, fenugreek, grapefruit, plum, gooseberry, lanolin, light oxidative apple, lemon and very complex minerality and herbal notes. The nose is so layered and complex that it made me euphoric. The mouthfeel is silky, intense with an exquisite concentration. On the palate we get spiciness of fresh turmeric, ginger powder along with roasted chicken skin, caramelized carrots, citrus fruits, a haze of cherry, smoky flint, mushroom and even some panko. The finish is extremely impressive with infinitely long and perfect acidity and complex minerality with wood accents. This is a wine that can be analyzed for hours because the flavor and the taste are constantly evolving. This top champagne has taken the underrated Pinot Meunier grape to a higher level. The crispy mouth watering acidity and perfect balance makes sure there is a great aging potential. Bravo!

Retasted when opened in advance for over 2 weeks: exceptional vinous nose with mocha, deep tropical fruits such as papaya, smoked lemon, crushed coriander seeds, dried flower, lit fireworks, almonds and even some mocha together with Montrachet vinosity. The acidity became a bit more mellow and rounded. Lovely smoked white tea on the mid palate and meringue italienne. Absolutely Fantastic. The finish is just huge with perfect acidity and Burgundy wood tones with even some butter.
94 points with 96 potential

Base 2012. Light straw color with a very refined effervescence and a soft mousse in the glass. On the nose we get crystallized citrus fruits, Reinette apple, white peach, butter caramel, white pepper, crushed rocks and a haze of cappuccino. After caraffing the wine we get ripe peach, petit beurre biscuits, Burgundy wood spices and a soft but pleasant medicinal tone going towards yellow Chartreuse. Intense focussed mouthfeel with mouth caressing micro bubbles. On the palate you get white peaches and dried sour cherry. On the mid palate you get yellow grapefruit, coffee and chichory root, smoky tones but with a soft vegetal note of thai basilicum, lime zest and salty oyster juice. Long dynamic finish of white currant, gooseberry and yuzu. Lovely balance between sour and nervous bitterness. You get a soft film of citrus oil on your lips. The acidity makes you desire another glass of this lovely wine. It’s drinking nice even at this very young stage but with time it will get more complex and will develop deep earthy and more pronounced coffee tones.
92 points with 93 potential





Didier-Ducos: Absolu Meunier


Vineyards:
Viticulture:
Filtration:
Vinification:
Ageing: Sur lies with crown cap
Dosage:


Light yellow golden color with quite large bubbles. On the nose we get half baked baguette, apple, mango, honey and sweet biscuits. The mouthfeel is pleasant and rounded. On the palate you get pineapple,apple, mango, honey and sweet yeast. The finish is quite short and misses tension. The dosage seems to be too high.
70 points





Dom Caudron: Epicurienne


Vineyards: Passy-Grigny clay-limestone and clay-sandstone soil, vines are average 50 years old
Vinification: Partial malolactic fermentation. Partial vinification in oak barrels by Aquaflex
Ageing: on lees during 5 months.
Dosage: 9 gr


Lovely golden color with an elegant effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Mature nose of ripe fig, overripe apple and peach, a hint of goosefat, cocoa butter, honey and bakery yeast. Not hyper complex but still an enjoyable nose. The mouthfeel is smooth and unctuous. On the palate you get fig, plums, frangipane cake, baked apple and tangerine. The finish extends the palate and adds a hint of freshness. Not bad at all.
79 points


Dom Caudron: Cornalyne


Vineyards: Passy-Grigny clay-limestone and clay-sandstone soil
Vinification: Partial malolactic fermentation. Partial vinification in oak barrels by Aquaflex
Ageing: on lees during 6 to 8 months.
Dosage: 9 gr

Luminous golden color with a medium refined effervescence. Quite a stroking nose that reminds completely of a tequila sunrise cocktail. After swirling the glass we get toffee, aniseed, generic pineapple and lots of woodtones with vanilla and Burgundy butterness. The mouthfeel is pleasant and rounded. On the palate you get mirror of the nose with pineapple, candied tropical fruits on syrup, jelly bear candy and too much sun ripe pitt fruits. The finish misses supporting acidity and leaves a trail of banana (isoamyl acetate). The woody flavors remind me a bit of cheap Australian white wines. It’s a crowd pleaser but not my cup of tea.
69 points






Dumangin: Trio des Ancêtres Achille 2000



Lovely golden color with an elegant effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Mature, complex and creamy. Initial nose of plants, and herbs and wood which reminds me of Chartreuse VEP with cherry, red berries, marshmallows, vanilla, almonds and minerality. After a while it showed pistaccio ice cream, sandy beach, lemon syrup, shoe polish and delicious candied angelika. The mouthfeel is vinous and full bodied. On the palate you get lokum, pistaccio, candied angelika, cherry, apricot and mirabel confiture. On the mid palate you get panna cotta with blackberries. Lovely woody finish with minerality and a perfectly integrated acidity.
90 points



Dosnon: Ephémère


Vineyards: Avirey-Lingey Kimmeredgien soil
Viticulture: Bio (no certified)


On the nose we get maracuja, unripe pineapple, salted caramel, asafoetida, mustardseeds, a touch of cognac, boskoop apple and a quite disturbing overtone of sulphur. The mouthfeel is tight. It seems to be a very young wine. On the mid palate we get some yeastiness. On the finish we get high toned citrus acidity with unripe pineapple. Unbalanced lemon acidity on the finish. Maybe this was a bad bottle. Not rated.





Egly-Ouriet: Vignes de Vrigny


Vineyards: 40 year old vines from Vrigny
Viticulture:
Filtration: No filtering
Vinification: on oak barrels
Ageing: 38 months sur lies with crown cap
Dosage:


Disgorgement: August 2009. Light golden color with fine bubbles which don’t last very long. It became a still wine when you move the glass. The scent is complex and very interesting. Perfect bakery yeast, Rhum Raisin, dried apricot, crust of brie cheese, some butter, iodine seabreeze and cherry. The taste starts with candied currants and yellow fruit such as mirabelle and evolves into mouthfilling caramel with perfect apple acidity and a hint of liquorice and wood spices. The aftertaste has a bitter edge of orange zeste and lots of minerality with a iodine character. Delicious! Don’t drink this champagne too cold.
90 points

Disgorgement: July 2010. French bakery with warm croissants, shortbreads, toasted almond, apple crumble, bramble berry, mirabelle confiture, dried flowers and a saline touch of razor clams with sea breeze. After a while in the glass it pronounced that lovely pastoral hay-loft and straw character with dried flowers. Marzipan, apple, caramel, mirabelle plum and forest berries. On the mid palate there is epicea resin and a touch of mango . Delicious finish with praliné and cigar smoke. This is a fantastic version of Vignes de Vrigny
90 points





Philippe Gamet: Rosé de Saignée


Vineyards: parcelle des Bas-Bauchet in village Damery in la Vallée de la Marne
Viticulture: sustainable (with grassing, trawling), set to the HVE certification
Filtration: no
Vinification: 24 hours maceration, caused malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 35 months
Dosage: 8 grams


What a stunning nose. It’s like Vosne-Romanée spices with cherry, chocolate, slight mocha, dark prunes blackberry, cedar wood and freshness of lemon leaf, greek yoghurt and red berries. Deep vinous, slightly tannic mouthfeel. On the palate we get an explosion of cherry and raspberry with earthy tones, a touch of cognac and complex spices going towards asafoetida and even some saffron. On the mid palate you get grilled carrot. The finish is fabulous fresh with red berries, raspberry and pink pepper corns.
92 points





Hugues Godmé: "Les Romaines" 2005


Vineyards: Villedommange
Viticulture:organic and biodynamic
Dosage:2g/l


Lovely golden color with pinprick bubble perfection and nice tears on the glass. Deep autumnal aroma of horse skin followed by candied apricot and peach, ripe pear, licorice, cinnamon, cloves and smoke. When swirling the glass you get summer flowers and an impression of incense. The palate is concentrated and generous at the same time. The attack is very impressive with lush yellow fruits, candied citrus and smoke. On the palate you get crisp pear, plum and nectarine with an undertone of coriander seeds. The almost never ending finish has a crystalline citrus acidity juniper berries and a huge mineral complexity. Perfect balance. Fabulous.
93 points





Thierry Grandin: cuvée Ouriet


Vineyards: clay and limestone
Viticulture: Terra Vitis
Filtration: yes, on earth and passage au froid
Vinification: in stainless steel tanks, malo done
Maturation: 9,8 degrés
Dosage: zéro


Blend of vintages 2009 - 2008 - 2007. Lovely yellow golden color with a refined effervescence. Deep aroma of sweaty comté cheese in the sun, dried apricot, almonds, yellow peach, lemon zest, beech blossom, medlar and sea shells. A quite ripe nose. The mouthfeel is silky and quite fat. On the palate we get surprisingly pure, sappy fruit like citrus, apricot, peach and pineapple with soft tones of biscuit, whipped cream and blonde tobacco on the mid palate. On the finish we get redcurrant and supporting citrus acidity. A nice Meunier to drink now.
82 points





J.M. Goulard: La Charme (harvest 2008)


Vineyards: Mardeuil (sand-clay-limestone subsoil)
Viticulture: Sustainable viticulture
Vinification: 60% vinified in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation done.
Ageing: 5 years on the lees with crown cap.
Dosage: 7 gr


On the nose we get lemon curd, candied yellow fruits, walnut cream, caramel, ripe Meursault tones, cherry and minerality. The mouthfeel is soft and vinous like a sparkling Burgundy. On the palate we get candied angelica, yellow fruits, sabayon, dried plum, coconut and smoked lemon. On the mid palate we get coffee tones, butterscotch and some rosemary. The finish is long and balanced with gooseberry, yellow fruits and mild woody notes. Charming indeed! One of my favorite Meunier champagnes.
92 points





J.M. Heucq: Extra Brut Meunier



Vineyard: Cuisles. Viticulture: Biodynamie
Vinification: in stainless steel tanks, malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 4 years on the lees
Dosage: 4 grams



J.M. Heucq: Brut Rosé



Vineyard: L’Etau single parcel in Cuisles. Vines are over 50 years old.
Viticulture: Biodynamie
Vinification: saignée method in stainless tanks, malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 4 years on the lees.


Base year 2012. Dosage of 7 grams. Strawberry red color with a refined effervescence. On the nose you get graphite, slate, pomegranate, redcurrant, raspberry, oranges, cured pata negra ham and lots of cherry. The mouthfeel is fleshy and full bodied. On the palate you get cherry candy, pomegranate, redcurrant, raspberry and a core of minerality. On the surprisingly clean finish you get a trail of red fruits and soft citrus tones together with pink peppercorns and minerality. Very tasty indeed.
86 points





J. de Telmont: Mère Vigne 2012


Vineyards: single parcel "Mère Vigne" in Damery.

Pale straw yellow color with a perfect effervescence. At first it seems rather closed but after a short while it expressed bergamot, vineyard peach, pear, crunchy red apple, roasted pine nuts, hazelnut, raspberry and a whiff of poire williams. It is very complex and with more air it revealed fresh figs, melon, pineapple, english licorice candy and pastry tones. The mouthfeel is soft and the flavors are very focussed. On the palate you get a reflection of the nose with more pronounced melon and different flavors like bramble berry, red cherry, sea saltyness and a crushed rocks minerality on the mid palate. Aha, impressive indeed. The finish is long and dynamic with pear, citrus acidity and complex mineral tones with even some silex overtones. 89 points with 92 potential


J. de Telmont: Héritage 1995


Yellow golden color with thick tears on the glass. On the nose get maraschino cherry, candied angelika root, candied orange and fresh orange, sweet plum, candyfloss and lemon curd. The mouthfeel is silky. On the palate we get a reflection of the nose with a lot of lemon curd and a mist of yeast, muscat Beaume de Venise and apple cider. On the finish you get ripe apple, candied orange and lemoncurd with lingering ghee (clarified butter). A rather peculiar Meunier, you love or you hate it.
78 points with 80 potential


J. de Telmont: Héritage 1985


Lovely golden color with thick tears on the glass. On the nose we get lemon curd with clarified butter, ripe kiwi, raspberry, elderberry and elderflower with honey, apple fritter, cooked rhubarb, tamarind paste and sweet Damas mulberry. After a while it showed some lovely cappucino and gingerbread. The mouthfeel is silky and full bodied. On the palate you get apple with honey, candied yellow fruits, raspberry cream and rhubarb. On the mid palate you get bitter ink and cured buttery raw entrecote. The finish is rather moëlleux with candied orange and apple sauce. Would love to try thisone with veal kidneys in champagne.
87 points






Laherte et Frères: La Vigne d'Autrefois 2012


Vineyard: Chavot : Les Charmées, Les Noelles, La Potote, Les Rouges Maisons. Clay and silty soils, quite deep, with flints and little stones. Chalky subsoils. Mancy : Les Hautes Norgeailles, Les Bas putroux. Clay soils with a a little silt stratum in surface. Chalky subsoil.
Viticulture: vines cultivated with the respect for life.
Vinification: Grapes picked at optimum ripeness. Taditional pressing. Alcoholic fermentation in barrels. No malo.
Ageing: on fine lees for 6 months
Dosage: between 2 to 4 grams


Lovely lightgolden color with shades of red and a very refined effervescence. On the nose we get Redcurrant jam, star anise, peach and deep mineral tones. Focussed but quite vinous in the mouth. On the palate you get peach, orange with peel. On the mid palate you get an acidic bite of citrus and unripe yellow fruits and yuzu. On the finish we get spicy wood and very complex mineral tones.which resonates into high toned citrus fruit with intense chalkyness. Impressive length. At this stage it’s still too young but it promises a lot.
86 points with 88 potential




Laherte Frères: "Les Beaudiers" 2012


Vineyard: Chavot. Plots planted in 1953, 1958, and 1965. Clay and silty soils, not very deep,with a little of flints and little stones. Chalky subsoils.
Viticulture: vines cultivated with the respect for life.
Vinification: Saignée. Destemming and maceration for 12 to 14 hours. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeast in barrels. No malolactic fermentation
Ageing: on fine lees for 6 months
Dosage: 0 to 5 grams


Deep strawberry red color. On the nose we get christmas cake with dried fruits, smoke, pomegranate, melon, blackberry and strawberry with overtones of cave and vain of chalk. After a long time in the Zalto Universal glass we get delicious ripe greengage plums. The mouthfeel is fresh, vinous but with a spectacular creamyness on the back of your palate. The attack is an explosion of flavors with citrus, cherry, dried red berries followed by pomegranate, rose petals and a haze of allspice. On the mid palate you get lovely blood orange, melon and poppy seed. The finish bursts with minerality, soft woody tones and crisp acidity of red berries and citrus. This rosé is absolutely fabulous.
93 points with 94+ potential





Lelarge-pugeot: Les Meuniers de Clémence



2010. Seductive nose of brioche, pineapple, plum, orange zest, lemon candy, orange blossom and peach syrup. The mouthfeel is soft and silky. The attack is slightly salty followed by creamy peach, ripe pear, plum and some orange zest with a peach kernel bitterness. I miss purity and dynamics in the taste. On the finish we get a slight candied orange peel and lemon napoleon candies together with red fruits brioche, butter candy and a hint of chalky minerality. This is fun to drink but misses depth and complexity. But would I like to drink it again? Yes, absolutely.
79 points 2011. Lovely golden color with nice tears on the glass and an exquisite refined effervescence. Exciting aroma of millefeuille, nougat, milk whey, pruneux liquor, rye bread, lychee, almond blossom and crèpe suzette. Amazing! It has a velvety texture with good concentration and a lot of body. On the palate you get chocolate ganache, coconut, orangeblossom and gunpowdery tones. This combines elegance and power. The delicious toffee and underlying dark fruits like cherry and bramble make you forget that this is actually Meunier... The finish tops it of with a lovely sensation of orange, delicate yeasts and delicious nutty flavors. To my taste much better than the 2010.
87 points with 89 potential





Laurent Lequart: Pur Meunier Prestige


Vineyards: Passy-Grigny (clay-chalk subsoil)
Viticulture: Sustainable viticulture
Vinification:Vinified in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation partially done
Ageing: 6-8 months on the lees with crown cap. Aged for 6 years.
Dosage: 6 gr


Spectacular nose of peach, cigar humidor, sea breeze, baked pineapple, cloves, elderflower, popcorn, crust of comté cheese, lemon cake, redcurrant jelly and saffron with deep mineral tones and Meursault woody tones. Full bodied and creamy palate. Honey, apple-cinnamon, peach and fresh cheese. On the mid palate you get apricot, fig and creme brulée. Huge finish with smoky wood, sharp vanilla, citrus acidity and brown butter. I love this Meunier!
93 points


Laurent Lequart: Sweet Prestige


Vineyards: Passy-Grigny (clay-chalk subsoil)
Viticulture: Sustainable viticulture
Vinification:Vinified in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation partially done
Ageing: 6-8 months on the lees with crown cap. Aged for 6 years.
Dosage: 54 gr


Nice golden color with a refined effervescence and fat tears on the glass. Deep nose of frangipane, peach, baked fennel, saffron, flamed pineapple, cinnamon, cloves, fine, porcini mushrooms, cumin seed, honey and a touch of Sauternes. After a while in the glass you get fireplace and baked apple. The mouthfeel fleshy, full bodied and creamy. On the palate you get honey, reine claude, apple-cinnamon, peach and fresh cheese. On the mid palate you get apricot, fig, creme brulée and soft mineral tones. Huge finish with smoky wood, sharp vanilla, candied citrus, ripe nectarine and honey. An exceptional sweet Champagne.
91 points





R.C. Lemaire: Sélect Réserve


Vineyards: Marne Valley, limestone clay soil. 35 year old vines.
Viticulture: Sustainable viticulture
Vinification:Vinified in oak barrels. No malo, no filtration or fining.
Ageing: Aged for 4 years "sur lies"
Dosage: 4-8 gr


Light yellow golden color with a refined effervescence. Fresh nose of redcurrant, lemon, mango, Reinette apple, kumquat and blond tobacco. Energetic and focussed mouthfeel. Very clean. On the palate you get crisp apple, Sicilian lemon, red berries and a touch of oaky spice. The finish is crisp with lemon, chalky minerality and lime zest. A champagne with ageing potential.
82 points with 86 potential.





Alain Mercier cuvée Emile


Vineyard: Passy sur Marne
Vinification : alcoolic and full malolactic in enamel tanks, then carbonic with selected yeasts and homemade liquor after 5 months.
Filtration : yes (on seashells) after 2 to 3 débourbages
Dosage : 11,1 g/L

Harvest 2013. Nice golden color with a refined effervescence and soft mousse in the glass. In the nose we get cold cream, strawberry, dried raspberry, sunflowers and a whiff of garigue dried herbs and bourbon vanilla. The mouthfeel is full bodied and creamy. On the palate we get charentais, baked apple and ripe, juicy fig. On the mid palate you get the impression of melted vanilla ice cream. The finish is quite long with sustained butter baked apple and acidity of lemon together with herbal tones of rosemary and mint. This would be great with barbecued Mangalitsa pork.
85 points






Météyer: Brut Exclusif


Vineyards: Trélou sur Marne in the Vallée de la Marne. Chalky clay subsoil. Vines average age of 65 years.
Vinification: No malo. Fermentation in emaille cuves.
Ageing: min. 8 years sur lattes
Dosage: none


Intense golden color with a very refined effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Deep overwhelming nose of a running diesel engine and gunpowder. After swirling the glass you get lanoline, wax, honeycomb, quatre quart cake, melon and wet rocks. The fruit seemed to be muted but after caraffing the wine we got dried apricot, dried quetsch plum and a hint of noilly prat. The mouthfeel is generous and silky. On the palate you get overripe kiwi, apricot, orangette (chocolate-orange) and caramel tones. On the mid palate you get tamarind and deep autumnal “je ne sais quoi”. The finish is dynamic and focussed with lemon, gooseberry and overripe redcurrant together with a complex minerality and refined yeastyness. It’s very hard to get a grip on thisone but I personally loved it. My team members on the other hand said they had to get used to it and pointed out interesting aromas as being faulty. There for this could be without doubt the most peculiar Meunier in the tasting because of its kinky, “assez spécial” character. What more can I say then: you have to try it! Not rated.







Bruno Michel: La Demi Lune


Vineyards: Pierry. Parcel “La Demi-Lune”. Argilo-calcareous soil
Viticulture: Organic
Dosage: 6g/l.


Pale straw color with a refined effervescence. Rich nose of freshly cut apples, baked apple, applesauce, pear, blueberry, orangeblossom, burned honey, acacia flowers, mirabel, white peach, coconutmilk, cocoa butter and french pastry. After swirling the glass spicy notes of nutmeg, cloves, dried plum and some Poire William emerged. The mouthfeel is velvety, very pleasant. A lovely fruity attack followed by round ripe peach, quince, hazelnuts and puffed rice with honey. Lovely finish with minerality, baked apple and a trail of lemon. Very seductive.
88 points


Bruno Michel: Les Roses


Vineyards: Pierry. Parcel "Les Roses”. Argilo-calcareous soil
Viticulture: Organic
Dosage: 4 g/l.


Orange red color with a very refined effervescence. Deep nose of sweet strawberry jam, candied peaches, apple syrup, fenugreek, polishing wax, conifers, dried cherry and some leather tones. The mouthfeel is vinous with lots of concentration. On the palate you get cherry, dried cherry, forest strawberry, earthy tones, ginger, cinnamon, fresh turmeric and a touch of rhubarb. On the mid palate there are lovely umami tones of caramelized garlic and paprika powder. The finish shows depth and that typical vintage 2008 pointy acidity together with a mineral freshness.
89 points with 92 potential





Jose Michel: Pinot Meunier


Vineyards: Moussy, age of vines approximately 35 years
Viticulture: HVE
Filtration: cold (passage au froid) and filtration Vinification: in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation Dosage: 8 g/l.


Base of vintage 2012. Lovely fruity nose of papaya, melon, frangipane cake, lemongrass, liquorice allsorts and avocado with metalic mineral overtones. After some time in the glass we get overripe mirabel plum and nashi pear with some applesauce. The mouthfeel is soft and pleasant. On the palate we get pear, mirabel, sweet plum, frangipane and tangerine. Lovely sappy finish with tropical fruits and citrus acidity. Unmistakable Meunier.
83 points





Moussé: Spécial Club RS 2012


Vineyard: Cuisles, Vallée de la Marne
Vinification :Saignée. Maceration cold 72 hours before saignée. Alcoholic fermentation in oak casks.Racking in stainless steel tanks for neutralization. No malolactic fermentation.
Filtration : No collage, no passage à froid and no filtration.
Dosage : 2 g/L

Lieu-Dit Les Bouts de la Ville. Nice strawberry red color with a refined effervescence and creamy mousse in the glass. In the nose we get candied cherry, forest strawberries, tangerine, hybiscus and dill. The mouthfeel is slightly tannic. On the palate we get cherry, forrest strawberry, Quite a bitter touch of pumpernikel, red pepper skin and squid ink. On the finish we get sustained cherry, redcurrant and strawberry with a soft menthol freshness. A nice rosé to enjoy in the sun on the terrace.
79 points with 82 potential





Mignon: Pur Meunier


Vineyard: Festigny and Le Breuil. Clay and chalky soil. Average age of the vines: 40 years.
Vinification: in inox or emaille with malolactic fermentation.
Ageing: 24 months on the lees
Disgorged 22/02/2016. No dosage. Blend of harvest 2013 and 2012.

Pale straw color with a very refined effervescence. On the nose you get fermented tones of beet followed by raw mushroom, physalis fruit, apple, raspberry, redcurrant and juniper berry. After swirling the glass lovely and balanced yeasty notes came forward together with honeycomb and japanese pickles with ginger. The texture is slight vinous and has enough body. On the palate you get raspberry, cocoa butter, redcurrant and crispy orchard fruits on the mid palate together with a nice umami element and coffee. Lovely finish with alcohol warmth, almonds, yeast and a complex minerality.
87 points with 88 potential





Moussé: Spécial Club 2012


Vineyard: Cuisles, Vallée de la Marne
Vinification :Alcoholic fermentation in oak casks.Racking in stainless steel tanks for neutralization. No malolactic fermentation.
Filtration : No collage, no passage à froid and no filtration.
Dosage : 4 g/L

Straw yellow color with a medium refined effervescence but soft mousse in the glass. In the nose we get vine peach, almond paste, sweet grapes, pear, kumquat, butter, buttercup flowers, acacia blossom and butterscotch. The mouthfeel is soft and velvetty. On the palate we get vine peach, pear, apple and honey. On the mid palate you get dutch stroopwafel (thin wafle with caramel syrup filling). The finish is mellow with blueberry and bramble berry. I did expect a more intense palate for the vintage. It's an easy drinker.
78 points with 82 potential


Moussé: Spécial Club 2008


Vineyard: Cuisles, Vallée de la Marne
Vinification :Alcoholic fermentation in oak casks.Racking in stainless steel tanks for neutralization. No malolactic fermentation.
Filtration : No collage, no passage à froid and no filtration.
Dosage : 4 g/L

Yellow golden color with perfect sparkle. In the nose we get vineyard peach, mango, pineapple fried, red currant, candle wax, the recognizable Moussé yeast and minerality. Unctuous mouthfeel with lots of body but still crisp. On the palate we get grapefruit, white peach, currant with beautiful candied citrus notes. Beautiful focused and perfectly balanced, “Charpenté” as they say in France. Lovely smoky finish with hints of cherry. A wine with great potential.
86 points with 89 potential





Francis Orban: l'Orbane


Vineyard: Leuvrigny, Vallée de la Marne
Vinification : in oak barrels, no malo
Ageing: at least 5 years sur lattes
Dosage : 3 g/L

Deep wood infused aroma of fireplace, popcorn, wax, Meursault, mirabel, honey, apricot, peach, blueberry, lemon, Isigny creme and Beaufort cheese. Quite bitter on the palate with apricot skin, ripe mirabelle plum, chestnut, baked fennel with salt and artichokes. When tasted at warmer temperature it tastes it bit cloying, overripe. The finish is dry and lingers woody notes like tobacco and I miss supporting acidity and structure. Definately needs food. Pair this with quail in cream sauce with morels and cognac.
79 points





Piot-Sévillano: Provocante


Vineyard: Old vines from Vincelles
Viticulture: HVE Vinification : inox, malolactic fermentation
Filtration : Plate filtering
Dosage : 8.5 gr

Crunchy thin wafers, apple, honey, maracuja, hazelnut, mandarin and lemon. After some time in the glass came quince and medlar. Quite a ripe nose. The mouthfeel is expressive and crisp. The palate is fruity with apple, ripe pear, lychee, maracuja and an undertone of dill, roses and rosehip jelly. The finish is quite long with lovely citrus acidity and a profound minerality.
83 points





Jérôme Prévost: La Closerie "Les Béguines"


Vineyards: Gueux. Soil is mix of chalk and sand. 40 years old vines. Filtering: none, no passage au froid, no fining Vinification: No malo. Fermentation in oak casks. Usage of indigenous yeasts. Ageing: 3 years sur lattes

LC11. Light golden color with a refined effervescence and lovely mousse in the glass. This wine needed time to open up because it was quite reductive at first. After an hour you get a deep aroma of horse skin, rhubarb, sea shells, smoky wood, bramble berry, lanoline and oxidative apple tones. The nose really reminds me of Déhu Les Rue des Noyers 2011. In the mouth this is fresh but I expected a bit more concentration. On the palate you get apple, oxidative notes, tonka bean with vanilla and lovely warmth on the mid palate of baked apple nuts. On the finish you get a Parisian baguette-like sensation with a trail of apple and citrus acidity. I actually tasted the LC11 when the bottle was open for over 3 weeks. The oxygenation of the wine highlighted the oxidative character but new flavors appeared such as: quince,endives, blond tobacco, redcurrant and something reminiscent of glue. Still very enjoyable. Most champagnes wouldn’t have survived.
89 points with 91 potential

LC10. Very pale color with a refined effervescence. Direct nose of minerals, young citrus fruits, linden blossom, a hint of Meursault and freshly baked sourdough bread. After a while in the glass you get forest strawberry and foliage together with more pronounced yeast tones. The palate is surprisingly deep and full bodied. No young citrus fruits here but deep forest berries, a hint of dried plum, chestnut, sensual ripe pear, elegant yeasts. The finish is very "Bourgogne" with lovely tangerine, smoky wood and soft tobacco and of course complex mineral tones. This is clearly a great wine for ageing.
93 points

LC09. The appearance of the wine is very strange because it is cloudy like a beer. This is because the wine didn’t have had collage, finings. The nose is powerful and intense with candied orange peel, stroopwafel (syrup waffle), saucisson, musk, beer yeast, pear compote and flambeed pineapple. Very dense and yeasty. The mouthfeel is huge. This wine has a lot of body. On the palate you get a sensation of yeast, nuttiness, dried fruits and delicious tarte tatin. The finish has an exquisite length… it’s like neverending. In memory you get apple crumble, biscuits and undefinable rustic flavors.
Absolutely fabulous.
94 points

LC08. Light golden color with a refined effervescence but quite an aggressive mousse in the glass. Extremely fresh nose of chalk dust, citronella, lemongrass, lime, yuzu, Durondeau pear and even gastrique (deglazed caramel with vinegar) and tarragon, almost like a sauce bearnaise! Not exactly what I was expecting… On the palate this was just as peculiar. A very mineral attack is followed by very acidic and floral bitter flavors. The finish was packed with bitter grapefruit and zests. I suspect there was something wrong with this bottle. Not rated



Jérôme Prévost: La Closerie "Fac-Simile"


LC13. Lovely oeil de perdrix color with a perfect effervescence and nice mousse in the glass. Interesting nose of high toned citrus fruit, potpourri, funky yeast, raspberry, quetsch, redcurrent confiture, sea breeze, crushed rocks, algues and complex smoky minerality. The mouthfeel is focussed and dynamic. On the palate you get Nashi pear, raspberry, red cherry, strawberry, dried roses, fried rice and a hint of oxidation. The finish is dry and misses complexity. I expected a bit more.
87 points

LC12. Intense rose color going towards ruby red with a perfect effervescence. Very complex nose of poppy seeds, anchovis and bottarga, cranberry, redcurrant, blood with lots of iron overtones, a hint of "Selossian" oxidation, chichory root and rose pepper corns. After a while it shows the typical Prevost funkyness that I love so much. The mouthfeel is very vinous, like drinking sparkling Cotes de Nuits. On the palate you get cranberry, bottarga, dried strawberry and minerality. Intensely dry and focus with a lovely touch of salinity and lots of bitter tension on the mid palate. The finish is quite long, strict and mineral with dry toast, iron and dried red berries. This will age beautifully.
92 points with 94 potential





Salmon: 100% Meunier


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : inox
Filtration : None
Dosage : 7 gr

Fruity nose of high toned citrus, honeydew melon, pear, peach, mango and pineapple. After some time in the glass we get apple blossom, ripe quince and mineral overtones with even some smoky flint. The mouthfeel is soft and pleasant. On the palate we get pineapple, melon, vineyard peach and orange. On the mid palate we get some citrus zest. The finish has lovely juicy citrus fruit and lingering maracuja and pineapple together with some peppermint and minerality. Very pleasant and unmistakable Meunier.
82 points


Salmon: Spécial Club 2012


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : inox, 40% aged on oak
Filtration : None
Dosage : no dosage (test)

Light golden color with a refined effervescence. A seductive, sexy nose of roasted hazelnuts, ripe juicy Doyenné pear, blueberry, english licorice candy, vanilla, chocolate ganache, passion fruit and a hint of tarragon. An absolute perfect mouthfeel, vinous, energetic but silky at the same time. Lots of concentration. Lovely juicy peach and citrus brings you to complex spices with rosemary, lavender, juniper berries and beech wood smokiness. The finish is very long with citrus fruits, complex minerality, allspice and tarragon. Absolutely fabulous to drink now but it has a bright future.
93 points with 93+ potential


Salmon: Rosé de Saignée 2012


Vineyard: Single parcel "Bouxin" from Chaumuzy
Vinification : 18 hours of maceration
Filtration : None
Dosage : 3 gr

Orange-rose color with a refined effervescence. On the nose we get freshly cut sandwich, raspberry, fried echalottes, rose pepper corns, mace, red currant jelly, forrest strawberries, poppy seeds, orange and tobacco. After some time in the glass we get grilled bell pepper, crushed coriander seeds and a sweet overtone of orange blossom and sugared almonds. After a long time in the glass we get The mouthfeel is expressive but is slightly grainy, tannic in texture.. On the palate you get strawberry, raspberry, rose, rose grapefruit, sweet red pepper and hybiscus. On the mid palate you get fresh blueberries and a bitter touch of cloves and lavender. The finish is fresh and has a complex minerality and sea saltiness. This wine will get even better with some more bottle age.
91 points with 92 potential


Salmon: Vintage 1981


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : /
Filtration : None
Dosage : None

Amber golden color with a very fine effervescence and fat tears on the glass. Intense nose of mandarin napoleon, nectar, scents of the woodland, carré confiture and waffle batter. After a while in the glass we get sea breeze and mineral tones. The mouthfeel is vinous but slightly tannic. In the taste we get deep cognac tones, bruised apple, fleur de sel, earthy tones and vibrating acidity. On the mid palate there is fish oil and other savory flavors. The finish reverberates the taste and has a surprisingly fresh citrus acidity. This champagne makes you confusing about salt and sour because it has so many umami elements. An interesting vintage indeed.
85 points


Salmon: Vintage 1978


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : /
Filtration : None
Dosage : None

Old golden color with a very soft effervescence and fat tears on the glass. Deep autumnal aroma of leather, almond biscuit, toasted hazelnuts, sheepskin, hayloft, salted caramel, fresh warm frangipane and earth. The mouthfeel is silky, deep and warm. You get an explosion of taste with Madagascar chocolate, truffle, grapefruit, roasted lemon, tonka bean, mocha and hazelnut. The finish is huge and seems eternal. It’s like you have just smoked a thick Cohiba and drank a great Scotch with it. Eventhough this is not the most layered wine it surely gives enough pleasure. I would love to have this on my own sitting at the fireplace listening to Mahler.
92 points


Salmon: Vintage 1976


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : /
Filtration : None
Dosage : None

Yellow golden color - doesn’t look like an old vintage - with a soft effervescence. Lovely nose of dried mirabelle plum, yellow flowers, elderberry, stewed pear, café noir, lovely patisserie française aromas and acacia honey. The mouthfeel is soft and creamy. Lots of dynamic and expansive on the palate. The taste is very floral with honey followed by apricot, Pommeau, candied citrus and woody tones. The finish is very savory with grissini and cedar wood. A lovely 1976, balanced, sexy but with a lot of tension on the finish. It's so dry, it really needs food (or dosage). Would be great with riz de veau a la crème.
90 points

Salmon: Vintage 1971


Vineyard: Chaumuzy
Vinification : /
Filtration : None
Dosage : None

Deep golden color and fat tears on the glass. Overwhelming nose of ripe fig, dates, apple fritter, beef stock, pruneaux, leather, hay, orange, mocha and toffee. After swirling the glass you get deep cognac tones, dried porcini mushrooms and chocolate. Deep vinous mouthfeel. On the palate you get tarte tatin, baked pineapple, mocha, dates and sous-bois tones. Peppery finish with black pepper and wood. The finish makes a dry, sharp cut on the palate. It definately needs food. Thinking of quail in a cognac sauce with porcini.
89 points





J-M Sélèque: Les Solistes 2012


Vineyards: Pierry. Lieu-dit: “Les Gouttes d’Or”. Vines planted in 1951 and 1953. Chalky clay subsoil. Vines have an average age of 65 years.
Vinification: Individual vinification. 50 % of the wine with alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels without malolactic fermentation and 50 % of the wine with alcoholic fermentation in concrete egg without malolactic fermentation. Minimum intervention to the wine. Natural cold stabilization, no fining and no filtration. Bottling in Spring with a cork.
Ageing: on the lees for at least 36 months or more.
Dosage: 2 gr

Disgorged 03/2016. Light golden color with a very refined effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Seductive nose of guava, melon, forest strawberries, beeswax, blueberry, crystallized citrus fruits together with undertones of silex, slate and a whiff of vanilla. It gets more mineral with tone showing that special cave-like character with chalk vain. The mouthfeel is fabulous: concentrated and sappy. The palate reflects the nose. You get that lovely guava again, kumquat, ginger powder and fresh brioche tones on the mid palate. The fabulous backbone of acidity segues into a spicy finish with pepper and high-toned citrus. Superb!
92 points with 93 potential





Eric Taillet: Bansionensi


golden yellow color with a nice effervescence. On the nose we get fermented soy, fruit compote, freshly cut mint, banana, salted caramel, petit beurre biscuits, a tip of sour cherries in Jenever, brioche and dried rose petals. The mouthfeel is spicy, slightly brutal yet with a nice roundness.On the palate we get baked salty sea lavender, baguette, hibiscus, cheddar, yuzu lemon and on the mid pallet pineapple and melon. The finish has a nice length with almonds fresh from the cap. This Champagne is both playful and serious at the same time.
88 points


Eric Taillet: Bois de Binson

Blend of vintage 2012 and-2013 (50/50). Golden color with very fine bubbles. Rich nose of caramel, mimolette cheese, baked pear, prunes, vin de paille, honey, ripe apple and toasted oak. It also showed an almost charcoal aroma, this wine is on fire! After swirling the glass we got yeast, dark berries, raspberry, bramble berry and earthy tones. The mouthfeel is large and vinous. The palate is rich, earthy and slightly oxidative with baked apple, blueberry jam, quince, almond paste, honey and marzipan. On the mid palate there is delicious juicy greengage plum. Lots of maturity for such young and dynamic vintages. The finish is long and expresses lovely wood tones, comté cheese and apple. The acidity is quite sharp and therefore I think this wine needs some time to settle down. I think that a little more dosage would be better.This wine is so powerful and rich that you could even pair it with saddle of hare and chestnut puree.
89 points with 91 potential


Eric Taillet: millésime 2000

Lovely old golden color with fat tears on the glass. On the nose you get old Pecorino cheese, baked apple, cooked rhubarb, Kirsch and “sauvage” tones but also a very deep floral essence like a field of flowers. The mouthfeel is deep and vinous. On the palate you get an almost Swiss cheese fondue like taste together with deep tones of cherry bramble and truffle. The finish is long with cigar smoke, caramel and hay honey. This is a fabulous champagne to pair with cheeses or to drink with your Raclette.





Tarlant: La Vigne d'Or



Vineyard: "Pierre de Bellevue" in Oeuilly (Marne valley), Sparnacien soils (chalk mixed with clay). Average age of vines: 50+ years
Vinification: Vinification in 4-wine oak barrels. Barrel fermentation with the lees regularly stirred back into the wine.
Dosage: no dosage


Vigne d'Or 2006. Yellow golden color with an exquisite refined effervescence. Closed nose of saffron, kurkuma, candied yellow fruits, tangerine, blackberry, nuts, tamarind paste and a slight medicinal overtone. The mouthfeel is tense and focussed. On the palate you get young tropical fruits, tangerine and woody spices. The finish is linear with lemon acidity, nutmeg and white pepper. Expected a bit more maturity for the vintage but I’m sure this will evolve great.
83 with 86 potential

Vigne d'Or 2004. Aromatic nose of frangipane cake, almond oil, candied peach and Bigarreau candied cherry with soft woody tones and a hint of allspice. The mouthfeel is dynamic and focussed. On the palate you get a reflection of the nose with quite some sweet tones together with hints of mint chocolate and tonka bean. The finish is dry and shows some leesy tones and blonde tobacco. This wine needs some more time but you can already tell that it will be seriously good in a few years.
85 with potential of 88

Vigne d'Or 2003. Lovely golden color with an exceptional refined effervescence. Warm nose - the typical heat of the vintage - of pineapple baked in butter, quince cheese, café noire biscuits, Kirsch, apple strudel and game stock. This aroma excites me a lot. The palate is rounded but after a short while it gets bone dry and dominated by Boskoop apple and cedar wood. The finish is spicy with reverberating oaky tones. I wish the palate showed a bit more depth and structure.
82 points

Vigne d'Or 2002. 2002 is an exceptional vintage and this shows absolutely in this Vigne d’Or. What a magnificent nose of ripe mango, litchi, cheesecake, lots of berries, yuzu and plums on eau de vie. After swirling the glass deep coffee and cognac tones emerged. This is fabulous. The mouthfeel is concentrated but has a lovely patinated feel to it. On the palate you get a tropical sensation together with meringue and prunes on the mid palate. The finish is long and so delicious with candied citrus perfect acidity and a hint of wood. This is of course still very young but oh my I wish I could stuff my cellar with this beauty. My co-taster François couldn’t sit still while tasting it, he clearly fell in love with it. < br/>92 points with 95 potential

Vigne d'Or 1999. 1999 is the vintage which made me fall in love with Vigne d’Or. It’s so special to retaste this after more than 10 years. Look at that color, it’s 24k gold, you can tell that it’s very precious. The nose is pure romance: matured honey tones, cherry, baked pineapple, glazed chestnuts, roasted peanuts and smokey tones. After a while it showed passion flower and even some cherymoya. The mouthfeel is what we call vinous, rustic an deep with some alcohol warmth. On the palate you get Madagaskar chocolate, smoke, lots of deep matured fruits with apple and walnut oil with a pinch of salt on the mid palate. Then comes the finish with again that perfect acidity with candied citrus and a drip of yellow chartreuse. It’s fantastic to drink now and it’s reaching its peak very soon now. This wine begs for a game dish with wild mushrooms in creamy sauce with cognac.
94 points




Trudon: Monochrome



The nose has delicious reine claude (greengage) plum, madarines, orange zest, cassis, freshly baked bread and linden blossom with a hint of sweet jasmine. Lovely fresh and vibrant mouthfeel. On the palate you get white currant, sappy citrus, kumquat, pomelo, mandarine orange and orange blossom. On the mid palate you get soft autolytic tones of breadcrust but also quince paste and mild spices like mace and a hint of cumin seeds. The finish is hyper focussed (like RC Lemaire) with redcurrant, lemon and gooseberry together with a very straightforward minerality. It is perfectly structured and long on the palate. Very colorfull, not monochrome at all. Impressive.
90 points with 92 potential





VINCENT d'ASTRÉE: Eclipse



Vineyard: Pierry
Vinification: on inox, no malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 6 years on the lees
Dosage: no dosage


Dense straw color with a powerful effervescence. Lovely rich nose of, mature honey, prunes, vine peach, sugarred almonds, lemon curd, dried apricots and a hint of cognac. After swirling the glass you get peony roses and dried violet flowers together with warm tones of fireplace. The mouthfeel is vinous but very dry. On the palate you get orange with zests, cocoabutter, smoke, candied apricot and peach, bitter chocolate and toasted almonds. Long finish of beadcrust, yeast, nutmeg, fresh minerality and a mild citrus acidity. I would have preferred this with a bit of dosage. Don't drink this too cold.
81 points

VINCENT d'ASTRÉE: Brut Novae



Vineyard: Pierry
Vinification: on inox, no malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 6 years on the lees
Dosage: 6g/l


Nice golden color with a powerful effervescence and nice mousse in the glass. Lovely complex nose of fresh figs, cured Serrano ham, smoke, wild garlic, candied lemon peel, peach, graphite, veal stock and ink. After quite some time it showed Bulgarian roses, apple syrup, fondant chocolate with hazelnuts and French pastry. The mouthfeel is vinous and full bodied. On the palate you get a reflection of the nose all together with candied grapefruit and peach, dried porcini mushrooms and mineral tones of silex and pencil. There are delicious coffee tones on the mid palate. The finish is packed with pie crust and shows warm tones of mace and yeast. Delicious.
85 points with 87 potential

VINCENT d'ASTRÉE: Coeur de Terroir 2004



Vineyard: Pierry
Vinification: on inox, no malolactic fermentation
Ageing: 6 years on the lees
Dosage: 6g/l


Deep golden color with an elegant effervescence and nice tears on the glass. Lovely deep mature nose of Dutch syrup wafle that are still warm, cherry, flamed pineapple, dates, rustic yeasts, baked mushrooms and earth. Lovely fat, vinous mouthfeel. On the palate you get dried fruits, sirop de Liège (pear-fig syrup), the cognac flamed pineapple from the nose and fantastic Perigord winter truffles. The finish extends the majestic taste of truffle together with mature apple tones and yeast. Fabulous!
90 points

 
 


Special thanks to:

Nicola Neumann - Champagne Characters München
DERCOR Wevelgem for Dehours Genevreaux
In Vitis Vinifera Wijnegem for Chartogne-Taillet
All growers, coöperatives and houses that participated in my project.


 
Michiel Demarey
Michiel Demarey
Michiel Demarey is a blogger and journalist specialized in champagne. He is Knight in the order of Coteaux de Champagne.